This will be my fourth time in Japan, but the country never gets old. A few years ago, my husband and I went to Japan for our ten year anniversary and had amazing omakases, went to an adults only onsen in Hakone, and one of the best Kobe steakhouses. This trip was not that kind of trip. However, the itinerary I crafted was a little bit of everything for everyone in the family. After hearing about the intense heat and humidity during the summer months, we opted to go during cherry blossom (Sakura) season, which coincided with my kids spring break.
Tokyo Day 1: Touchdown
Arriving in Tokyo
Our Japanese adventure kicked off with an uneventful flight from Seattle to Narita Airport. Upon arrival, we first headed to the JR office to activate our pre-purchased Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass). The process was quick and efficient, though it was surprising that their computer system seemed like it was from the 1980s. While there, we also secured reservations for the Narita Express to Tokyo and made advance bookings for popular train routes like the Tokyo-Kyoto Shinkansen, as these trains can fill up quickly, especially during peak seasons. We purchased the 7 day pass and planned to start the pass upon departing Tokyo and added a Suica card to our apple wallet for local trains. For the kids, we kept our Suica cards from our previous trip which they used, though they had to pay adult fares.
A Return to Park Hyatt
After a 50-minute journey on the Narita Express, we arrived at Shinjuku Station and hopped in a taxi to the Park Hyatt Tokyo. Having stayed here before, we were excited return. The hotel's unparalleled service and classic ambiance never fail to impress. With the hotel scheduled for a two-year renovation, we wanted to experience the original hotel grandeur before the transformation. Hopefully they won't change too much of the hotel layout, but I do think the rooms are due for some upgrades such as the bathroom, television, and room connectivity.
The breakfast buffet at Girandole is a highlight, with a fantastic selection of both Western and Japanese cuisine. They pride themselves in procuring local, fresh ingrediants and even their eggs are from a local farm. Not quite like Colin the Chicken in Portlandia, but the eggs do have a fantastic farm life. Try to snag a table by the windows for an amazing view of the city. We also tried New York Grill, which even has a kids menu. They have a fantastic selction of Japanese steak, like the Hyogo Kobe and Miyagi Sendai which we tried, an exhaustive wine list. And if you're looking for a sophisticated nightcap, head to the iconic New York Bar, featured in the movie Lost in Translation. The hotel concierge can assist in dinner reservations, including the New York Bar which is incredibly busy on the weekends.
Tips for Fellow Travelers:
Purchase a JR Pass in advance if you know your train routes will more costly than the pass. You can use fare calculators like Daisuki.
Book train reservations early, especially for popular routes.
Purchase a Suica card at the JR Office at airport for kids to get the kids fare price.
Have hotel concierge assist in reservations as some highly rated restaurants only speak Japanese.
Tokyo Day 2: Parks, Shrines, and Harajuku Vibes
A Day of Exploration
Our second day in Tokyo began with a leisurely stroll through Yoyogi Park, hoping to catch a glimpse of the city's famous cherry blossoms. Unfortunately, the blooms were behind the forecasted schedule, but the park's serene atmosphere and many birds provided a perfect start to the day.
Next, we walked to Meiji Jingu, a Shinto Shrine and immersed ourselves in Japanese culture. The experience of purifying ourselves at the entrance by washing our hands and mouths, exploring the sacred grounds, and making wishes at the wishing tree was truly magical. Our kids were intrigued by the tradition of drawing Omikuji fortunes and we also purchased a few lucky amulets since they were so beautifully crafted.
The vibrant energy of Harajuku was our next stop. We wandered through the trendy streets, soaking in the unique fashion styles and youthful spirit of the neighborhood. A highlight for the kids was the hedgehog cafe, a quirky and fun experience. The space was very small but the staff ushered guests in and out very efficiently. I managed to stop in Vintage Qoo which had some of the best selections I've seen for second hand luxury handbags and accessories. The shop was two floors with a separate store for Chanel products.
We ended our day with a visit to the Art Aquarium in Ginza. While the exhibit was visually stunning, it was small so might not justify a dedicated visit unless you are already in the area or you have a particular love of fish.
Tips:
Meiji Shrine is a must-visit for it's beautiful grounds and culture.
Harajuku is a vibe and perfect for people-watching and unique shopping experiences.
The Art Aquarium is best suited for fish enthusiasts.
Day 3: Puroland Magic and Martial Arts
A Day of Kawaii
Day three was pure magic for my daughters and a nostalgic trip down memory lane for me. Puroland, the Sanrio theme park, was everything we hoped for and more. The moment we stepped into the Sanrio-themed Tama train station, we were already immersed in the magic. Having pre-purchased our tickets on Klook, it saved us time and even offered a small discount. To maximize our time, we opted for fast passes, as some of the popular rides were over an hour long wait. Puroland was a Kawaii wonderland, with every corner filled with adorable characters and charming details. The gift shops for Sanrio lovers were dangerous and we did end up with a large hull including a full size umbrella.
After lunch at the park's cafeteria, we stumbled upon a silhouette artist named Gus. He has been honing his craft for over 25 years and also created the official side profile of Hello Kitty. The silhouette art the girls picked was of their profile facing a character. One chose Guadatama and the other chose Little Twin Stars. We loved Puroland, but I would say the rides and park is geared towards a younger audience (under 12) unless you are Sanrio fans.
Judo at the Kodokan
While the rest of the family relaxed in the hotel after a long day, my husband embarked on an adventure of his own. A lifelong martial arts enthusiast, he had the opportunity to train at the Kodokan, the birthplace of Judo. It was a dream come true for him, and he returned proud, exhilarated and inspired.
Securing a spot in a class specifically designed for international visitors took some coordination, involving phone calls, emails, and assistance from our hotel concierge. You must bring your own Judo gi and have a solid foundation in martial arts, as you'll be sparring with experienced black belts. The experience was undoubtedly the highlight of our trip for him, offering a unique opportunity to immerse himself in the rich history and tradition of Judo.
Tips:
Consider purchasing fast passes at Puroland to save time.
Get a Sanrio silhouette for a unique souvenir.
For martial arts enthusiasts, research training opportunities at the Kodokan. Remember to bring your gi and allow for several hours for practice.
Day 4: See You At Disneyland Sea
While I'm not a theme park enthusiast, Disneyland Sea, with its unique ocean theme, was on our list of "must do" in Tokyo. Our visit coincided with the park's 40th anniversary, and we were excited to take advantage of the complimentary Priority Passes. Unfortunately, our lack of familiarity with the pass system, we did not fully utilize this perk as we made our first reservation for the afternoon. The pass rules are that you cannot obtain a Priority Pass for another ride until 120 minutes later or after the start time of your last Priority Pass ride, whichever is earlier.
Despite pouring rain, we persevered and managed to explore a good portion of the park. Our favorite rides were Journey to the Center of the Earth, Raging Spirits, and the whimsical Nemo & Friends SeaRider.
Tips:
Familiarize yourself with the Priority Pass system before your visit to maximize its benefits.
Be prepared for crowds, even on rainy days.
Day 5: Tokyo's Final Day
For our final day in Tokyo we kicked off the day with a visit to TeamLab Planets, an immersive art installation. Pre-purchasing tickets on Viator helped expedite entry, though we still faced a short wait. You must go barefoot, so just an FYI, as it was something I did not expect. The innovative and creative rooms were outstanding, and TeamLab was a highlight of Tokyo for me. I'd also recommend checking out TeamLab Borderless if you have the time.
For lunch, we went to the Tsukiji Market where we had an assortment of mochi, sushi, sake, and ice cream. The last time we were there, my husband and I ate at a highly rated omakase in the outter market, however, my kids are not as adventurous when it comes to sushi so we opted for a more traditional a la carte restaurant. I wanted to visit the fish auction, but the kids were not interested in getting up at 4:30am, so it continues to be on my bucket list.
As the day drew to a close, we went to Shibuya Sky for stunning panoramic views of the city and were able to get a birds eye view of the Shibuya Scramble in action. Unfortunately, the coveted sunset tickets were snapped up online almost instantly (perhaps by bots?), but the evening atmosphere with laser lights, illuminated world map, and lit tables was even better, in my opinion. For dinner, we stopped at a tempura restaurant, Tempura Tentora, in the Shibuya Scramble Square tower. The food was crispy, fresh, and not oily, highly recommend.
Tips:
Pre-purchase tickets for popular attractions like TeamLab Planets to avoid long wait times.
Explore the diverse culinary offerings at Tsukiji Market.
Book Shibuya Sky tickets well in advance for the best views.
Day 6: Kyoto A Slower Pace
After 5 days in Tokyo, we took the bullet train to Kyoto. My husband and I both love Kyoto. It's quaint, full of history, and ten paces slower; perhaps that is why we love Florence over Rome. We booked Nol Kyoto Sanjo, a boutique hotel in the Nakagyo Ward, as our home base. You can find my review of the hotel here. According to the updated sakura bloom forecast, we were right on time to witness the city's breathtaking cherry blossom display.
Our first afternoon was spent exploring the Nishiki Market, which had a mix of food and shopping. As we meandered through the market, we tried fresh mochi balls on a stick which were delicious, bought notepads and cards at stationary stores, and popsicles almost too beautiful to eat, but my kids devoured them nevertheless.
Tips:
Book accommodations in advance, especially during peak seasons.
Explore the Nishiki Market for a taste of local cuisine and souvenirs.
Be aware that some food shops, like the mochi shop, do not want tourists to take photos
Day 7: Cherry Blossoms and Deer Encounters
Our day began with a quest for the elusive cherry blossoms, leading us to the Gion district. The area's traditional wooden houses, or machiya, provided a picturesque backdrop for our cherry blossom hunt. We stumbled upon breathtaking blooms along the canal and even managed to snag some limited-edition Starbucks cups celebrating the sakura season.
Gion Shirakawa was our next stop, where we captured family photos before the morning crowds arrived. While we hoped to catch a glimpse of some geishas, the number of sightings has significantly decreased due to increased tourism and privacy concerns. Kyoto has implemented restrictions to protect the geisha's privacy and preserve the area's charm.
After exploring Gion, we continued our walk with visits to Yasaka Pagoda for a quick photo and Kiyomizu-dera Temple for stunning views of the city.
We already had a pretty full day, but we decided to go to Nara to see the deer before sunset. Witnessing the sunset amidst these gentle creatures was an unexpected gift. The deer's ability to bow for treats was so funny and cute, and the kids had a blast interacting with them. However, be cautious, as some deer can be quite persistent, especially if you have a cookie.
Tips:
Visit Gion early in the morning to avoid crowds.
Be respectful of the geisha's privacy and the area's regulations.
Be cautious when interacting with the deer, especially with young children.
Day 8: Fushimi Inari Shrine
Day eight was dedicated to one of Kyoto's iconic landmarks: Fushimi Inari Shrine. To avoid the crowds, we aimed to arrive early, but the popular spot was already bustling by 9 AM. While the initial part of the hike was crowded with a lot of people and "influencers" taking photos, the crowd quickly dissipated after the first section of the torri gates.
As a family, we are used to hiking, so the entire hike of 2.8 miles was pretty easy and took us less than 2 hours, with an ice cream break at the summit. We did, however, see many people struggling as the first half is all uphill. If you are not used to hiking or have children less than 3 years old, the full hike may not be right for you. After descending the mountain, we indulged in street food for lunch and explored the souvenir shops before heading back to the hotel.
Later that evening, we surprised the kids with a visit to the Ninja Experience Cafe, where they unleashed their inner ninjas by throwing ninja stars (shuriken), blowing darts, and wielding swords. It was an absolute hit, though on the pricey side. Our day concluded on a culinary high with a coveted table at Katsukura Shijo Teramachi, a renowned tonkatsu restaurant in the Nishiki Market area. The meal was the best meal we had in Japan, absolutely recommend.
Tips:
Arrive at Fushimi Inari Shrine early to avoid crowds.
Be prepared for a moderate hike with half of it uphill.
Day 9: An Osaka Adventure
Our Osaka adventure kicked off with a visit to the renowned Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan. Home to majestic creatures like whale sharks, ocean sunfish, and manta rays, the aquarium was a breathtaking. While pre-purchasing tickets seemed like a good idea, coordinating transportation to the aquarium proved to be more complex than anticipated. The car ride from the Shinkansen station to the aquarium took over 30 minutes by taxi, adding to the overall stress of arriving in time for our ticketed slot.
After the aquarium, we ventured to the Cup Noodles Museum, since who doesn't love instant noodes? Creating our own custom cup noodles was a fun and interactive activity. The museum itself was interesting as you learn about the history of the company, but small so it took only 20 minutes to go through.
The last thing we did in Osaka is visit the famous Dotonbori, Osaka's bustling entertainment district. The neon lights and lively atmosphere were a perfect end to our whirlwind visit. In hindsight, opting for a private car for our Osaka day trip would have been more efficient. In total, the taxi rides were $150+ and if we had car service perhaps we could have gone to a few other Osaka sites in the short time we were in the city.
When we got back to Kyoto, we went to the Pokemon Center. We did not have a reservation for the cafe, but it was fun for the girls to shop and wasn't too busy. For a late dinner, we stumbled upon Kyoto Station's basement food hall, a hidden gem that had a diverse range of Japanese cuisine. I indulged in yakitori, the kids opted for udon, and my husband had a wagyu rice bowl. For dessert, we all shared a green tea fluffy pancake with ice cream and mochi which was delicious.
Tips:
Consider staying overnight in Osaka to fully experience the city.
Explore transportation options beyond taxis for a more cost-effective and efficient journey.
Day 10: Nature, Culture, and Serenity
To maximize our final day in Kyoto, we opted for a private guide to explore areas that would be challenging to reach by public transportation. We began our day with a visit to Tenryu-ji Temple, a Zen Buddhist temple renowned for its beautiful tranquil gardens and architecture. We then walked over to the the world-famous Bamboo Forest. The towering bamboo stalks were beautiful and mesmerizing. Since we arrived quite early, we were able to capture some photos with no crowds.
Next, we ventured to the Arashiyama Monkey Park, where we saw playful snow monkeys in the wild. To get to the Park, you have to hike up the mountain about 20 minutes. The park offered stunning views of the surrounding mountains and provided a unique opportunity to observe these fascinating creatures. We were also lucky enough to be there during feeding time, and the monkeys were excited and perhaps slightly hangry. The park ranger warned us not to get too close to the monkeys, especially while eating. After hiking down the mountain,, we did some souvenir shopping and ate warabi mochi which I have never tried, but were delicious. From the Arashiyama area, we drove to a lookout for Lake Biwa. Due to rain and fog, The Biwako Terrence was closed so our guide took us to another spot where we could view the lake, Kyoto, and Shiga.
We concluded our day with a leisurely scroll along the Philosopher’s Path, a charming canal-side promenade lined with cherry trees. The path offered a peaceful escape and stunning photo opportunities.
Tips:
Arrive early to avoid crowds, especially at the Bamboo Forest.
Wear comfortable shoes for walking, as there's plenty of ground to cover.
Consider hiring a local guide to save time and for a deeper understanding of the area's history and culture.
Day 11: A Long Day of Travel
Our final day in Japan was dedicated to the long journey back home. To avoid potential train delays, we allowed ample time for our trip from Kyoto to Narita Airport. Fortunately, our trains ran smoothly, and we even had the opportunity to see Mount Fuji from the Shinkansen. I think seeing Mount Fuji really was the perfect end to our 10 days in Japan.
We arrived almost 3 hours early, so we walked around and to my surprise there were a lot of duty free luxury goods stores. Though I generally don't like to shop when traveling with my kids, I couldn't resist. If you have some extra time and have an affinity to luxury goods, I would highly recommend. After a nearly 24-hour journey, we finally touched down back home. It was so nice to be home and be in our own bed and routine, but did miss Japan after a few days. The country and it's culture of respect, politeness, and juxtoposed cities, really is a treasure everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime.
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